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阿勒波古皂實在不好做

之前做了兩公斤失敗皂終於有一點抓到小訣竅了

 

打這鍋的步驟如下

1. 先量橄欖油+乳油木果脂,脂類先溶解

2. 量鹼,入左手香冰塊後攪拌

3. 等1跟2溫度在35度左右,2倒入1混合,一直到濃T

4. 量月桂油,倒入濃T的3中

5. 持續攪拌,這時皂看起來越來越稀甚至有點油水分離的現象,表面看起來油油的沙沙亮亮的,不攪拌的話會有浮油跑出來

這時別氣餒繼續攪拌一陣子就會T

6. 濃T入模,隔天切皂

這款皂真的非常容易起綠色的白粉,而且放幾天後表面會很脆,脆到蓋章會裂

一般皂延性都很好,阿勒波剛好相反,所以脫模後要蓋章建議一天內一定要蓋

 

 

這次就來分享一下上網找到的一些資源

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fP5gxzqwbgc

這影片的阿勒波皂是熱製的,全部的油加入之後會經過一段表面浮出渣渣,油沉底部的現象。

這影片很可惜,在上述現象到T中間的過程被切掉了

之前打過兩鍋也是這樣,加熱後油渣分離更嚴重,後來全倒了,看完影片才知道應該要繼續攪拌下去

因為影片中間有中斷,所以不知道要攪多久

 

語言聽不懂

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cBnEV0FlGo

 

soap101

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcaEQsynDdY&list=PLEC1C5C05ADA3BD8B

 

 

傳統的阿勒波古皂是用橄欖油加月桂油做成作法如下

1. Seawater and half of the caustic soda you are gonna use brought to boil. 一半海水+一半鹼,先半鹼的原因是不希望皂化太快

The half of the lye solution added because you wouldnt want oils to saponify fast, this is 4-6 hours process. Half at start and the other after 3-4 hours. (Slow paced saponification). Naoh is certainly used nowadays. I know guys that tried ash but no performance and yes it was made using ash instead of Naoh( they didnt have Naoh long time ago)

The reason is to use seawater is that being salty. Salty water rinse faster than fresh water. When I mentioned fresh water I meant ''newly made salty water'' (sorry). and yes it becomes like jel at first. You drain till you see the soap coming out. The amount of water is 1:5-6 depending on the oils you are using. If the oil has an unpleasant smell or you added unfiltered base oil etc. you use more salty water.

2. Oils added 把油加入,步驟1,2 約需3-4小時

3. Mixture of seawater and rest of the caustic soda added while oils are turning soap. 等步驟1與步驟2 trace 後倒入混和的海水與鹼,此步驟約需3-4小時

4. Pot boils for 4-6 hours 加熱4-6小時,溫度隨意?

To be honest I never measure the tempetarure. 

5. Water is drained and fresh water added in 4-6 hours of boiling (The reason doing that is to drain excessive caustic soda and foreign objects if there is any) 

加水後再加熱4-6小時,可以除去多餘的鹼

6. The soap is let rested for 4-8 hours ( Water goes down while resting) 皂放置4-8小時,水會沉在皂下面

7. The soap is taken out from the pot to large mixer if there is any essential oil is going to be added. 皂倒出後加精油

 

8. The soap is poured into molds. ( Aleppo style is pouring into molds on the ground that are 1,5 -2,5 inch in height) 入模

9. Soap is rested for 4-5 days and cut. 放4-5天後切

10. Soap is rested for at least 3-4 months depending on the climate conditions. 放3-4個月後可以使用

 

1. Is only half the lye solution added because you want to reach "trace" faster? About how long time into boiling are you adding the other half of the lye solution?

Adding the lye in several batches to a hand-stirred "boiled" soap, which is how most soap was made 100+ years ago, will slow the saponification reaction. There are two reasons for this -- the soap will be easier to stir by hand and the saponification of the oils will be more complete. 

If you add the lye too quickly, soap particles form quickly enough that they will make a solid mass at the top of the kettle. This soap mass is so thick and stiff that it cannot be easily mixed by hand. The water-salt-lye solution below the soap layer cannot be mixed with the the oils trapped in the soap layer, so the batch will not saponify efficiently. By adding the lye slowly, the soap mass remains more fluid so it can be stirred more easily, and you'll get better results with this type of method.

2. Is NaOH or KOH used nowadays? It looks like traditionally it was made by ashes, which would mean KOH. Would NaOH make a too hard soap?

Lye made from ashes is not necessarily entirely KOH. It depends on the vegetation -- what kind of plant and the location in which it grew. Certain plants that grow near salt water naturally have more sodium in the ash than other plants or plants grown inland. 

Furthermore, the use of salt water (or seawater) in the soap making process provides an additional source of sodium. This free sodium reacts with KOH soap molecules to partially convert the KOH soap to an NaOH soap.

3. Is it really true that the soap is boiled at 200C (not F) as some sites are claiming?

That is absolutely incorrect. Boiled soap is a water-based system. Water at normal air pressure (0 bar gauge or 0 psi gauge) boils about 100 C (212 F). You'd have to have an expensive pressure vessel rated for well over 14 barG (200 psig) to raise the boiling point of a water solution to 200 C (392 F). Even a home pressure canner cannot get anywhere close to that. Bottom line -- the people who say that are confusing their Celcius with their Fahrenheit. That kind of pressure equipment ain't gonna be available with a handcrafted soap.

4. When fresh water is added, how do you exactly do it? Do you mix in the water properly? I mean, does not the soap solve up into the water and you end up with a gel? How do you prevent soap loss when draining the water? With how much water do you rinse it? Like same amount as soap?

The fresh water will indeed dissolve the soap. Dump it in and mix it up. This step is intended to reduce the amount of free lye in the soap (and also to remove the glycerin). This step has to be followed by a salt water rinse to drop the soap back out of solution. Yes, some soap is lost when you drain out the water. 

The amount of salt required depends on the soap. Coconut soap will require more salt. An olive based soap will require less. How much water? How much salt? You will have to figure that out by trial and error. That is why boiled soap is as much an art as a science -- you have to have enough experience in this type of soap making to be able to "read" the soap and respond appropriately. I'd learn the technique by making a soap similar to the aleppo, but using cheaper materials.

 

 http://www.soapmakingforum.com/showthread.php?t=38938&highlight=aleppo
 
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